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After hitchhiking from the airstrip into town on a stranger’s ATV, I pitched a tent behind Sarah James’s house. James, 74, has spent decades working to preserve the calving grounds and is the point of contact for a lot of the outsiders who pass through Arctic Village wanting to know more about ANWR. She welcomed me into her home with tea, pilot bread, and stories. Like everyone else that I met in the village, she kept an eye out the window facing the mountain that would bring the caribou each year, waiting, binoculars at hand.

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